How to tell if your Old Jewellery is Valuable

The first thing to check when assessing if a piece of jewellery is valuable is the hallmarks. These are normally found inside a ring or bracelet, on the post of earrings, and on the necklace's clasp.

Hallmarks will tell you the metal content of a piece of jewellery. Most jewellery also has a second mark that tells you the designer, manufacturer, or country of origin. Common hallmarks for metal content include:

• Gold: 22K, 18K, 10K
• Silver: 925, 800, sterling
• Platinum: 950, 900, PLAT

Remember, hallmarks can differ depending on the country of origin. For more information, check out our hallmark guide.

Another important point to remember is that not all jewellery will have a hallmark, as, for instance, there was no hallmark for platinum in the UK until 1975. Also, if the jewellery piece is very old, it might have worn off. But jewellery can still be valuable without a hallmark, so be sure to look at the additional points below.

Whether there is a hallmark of the metal content or not, you should check the material yourself. It is generally the material that gives the jewellery its value rather than the design.

Firstly, feel the weight of the jewellery piece. Fake pieces and costume jewellery are made from cheaper materials, such as brass and copper, that are then coated in gold or silver. These cheaper materials are lighter than precious metals. So, gold and silver pieces will be heavier than fake pieces. It will be easier to decide on the weight of the jewellery if you have other pieces to compare it to, especially if you know you have some cheaper jewellery in your collection.

Another way to test for cheaper materials is to use a magnet. Gold and silver are not magnetic, whereas some of the cheaper materials used can be magnetic. However, sometimes, the clasp will be made from a different material, so be sure to check various parts of the piece of jewellery when assessing its value.

Assessing the gemstones in a piece of jewellery can help you decide if it is valuable. Older stones won't be as symmetrical as newer stones. Also, check that the stones have good transparency and strong colours.

Unless you're a professional, it can be hard to tell exactly what stone has been used in a piece of jewellery. But be aware that precious gems, such as diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, can add to the value of a piece of jewellery.

If you’re not always sure, you can take your piece to a jeweller’s to be accessed, they will be able to tell you what precious gem is used, if it is real or not, and what carat the gem is. They would know best about how valuable your piece is when looking at the gemstones.

If there is a stone set in the piece of jewellery, the prongs (or lack of) can help you to gauge if the jewellery is valuable. Fine jewellery will have stones held into place by using prongs, whereas cheaper items will simply glue the stone down. However, some costume jewellery will have prongs, but these will not be practical, and the stones will still be glued into place.

However, just like hallmarks, some older jewellery may not have prongs. Pearls, for instance, tend to be an exception to this rule. So be sure to check other factors before deciding a piece of jewellery that doesn't have prongs isn't valuable.

Mass-produced jewellery tends to lack intricate details, whereas vintage and antique jewellery often have much more complex designs and delicate details. Because of the hand-crafted skills and unique designs, these pieces are generally worth more than mass-produced jewellery.

Assess the craftmanship of jewellery by looking for precise gemstone settings, well-executed engravings and finely detailed filigree.

The better the craftmanship, the more valuable a piece of jewellery will be.

The age of jewellery can have a significant effect on its value, but this can be hard to determine. If you know where the piece of jewellery came from, i.e., a great-great-great-grandparent, you might have a good idea of the age to go off. For pieces of jewellery that you haven't inherited and don't know the history of, you'll have to research different eras of jewellery to get an idea what to look for.

Jewellery from particular time periods are worth more as they are coveted by collectors. If your piece of jewellery has ties to an historical event, it will be worth more too.

If your piece of jewellery is made from cheap metals and plated with gold or silver, you can sometimes see the cheaper metal coming through parts that see heavy wear. Heavy metals will still wear if used, but the wear will be the same colour. The exception to this is white gold jewellery, as the yellow colour of the gold will shine through as it wears down over time.

Even if your item of jewellery is made with heavy metals, wear and tear can negatively affect its value, especially if there is damage or repaired sections. Well-preserved jewellery, with minimal wear and tear, will naturally be more valuable.

It can be hard to tell if your jewellery is valuable if you're not an expert. You can get an idea by testing the weight, checking the hallmarks, etc. But you will find it much harder to date it and check for uniqueness and rarity without professional help. Experts have advanced ways to test an item of jewellery for value, and much more experience and knowledge. A professional will be able to give you an accurate assessment, and value, that you will not be able to determine on your own.

Here at Ramsdens Jewellery, we have a wide range of jewellery experts on hand, that can assess if your jewellery is valuable. And because we sell second-hand jewellery you can buy valuable pieces as well as sell any pieces you no longer want or need. Feel free to visit your nearest Ramsdens store, we’d love to tell you how much your old jewellery is worth and give it a new home if you wish.

For more tips and all things jewellery, check out our guides.