A Guide to Vintage Diamond Jewellery

Vintage diamond jewellery holds an ability to capture people's attention. This is not only down to its ability to outshine fleeting trends, but also its ability to capture the essence of previous eras within the finer details. The lasting beauty of vintage diamond jewellery comes from careful craftsmanship, boasting forgotten artistic methods and paying close attention to details and styles from past eras. You can find era-style diamond pieces, or those that are truly vintage pieces which means that it’s existed for at least 20 years. You may even come across antique diamond jewellery on the market.

Related:The Difference Between Vintage And Antique Jewellery

Vintage diamond jewellery is not just about the elegant sparkle, it's also about the special cuts, settings and intricate detailing that makes vintage pieces so easily recognisable. In a world where fashions and trends can change every few weeks, vintage diamond jewellery remains a symbol of timeless elegance and represents the consistent desire for diamond jewellery.

Exploring diamond jewellery through the years, it is clear to see not only how style and trends have changed, but also how jewellery has evolved due to changes in society, culture and finances. The distinctive characteristics that represent each era add intrigue to the varied history of diamond jewellery.

The Victoria Era

The Victorian Era (1837-1901) was marked by the reign of Queen Victoria and was characterised by sentimental and intricate designs. Victorian diamond jewellery often featured delicate filigree work, a technique involving fine metal threads meticulously arranged to create lacy patterns.

Floral motifs were immensely popular, inspired by nature and often symbolizing emotions or sentiments. Cluster settings were prevalent, with multiple smaller diamonds arranged closely together to create the illusion of a larger, more sparkling centrepiece. Rose-cut diamonds were a heavily used and popular choice during this era, adding to the romantic and vintage aesthetic of the time.

The Edwardian Era (1901-1910) in diamond jewellery is defined by delicate and ethereal design elements that depart from the heaviness of the late Victorian period. Often featuring a lighter, more delicate aesthetic, Edwardian jewellery carried on the Victorian trend of intricate filigree work and featured influences from both classic and transitional styles.

Often crafted from platinum, Edwardian pieces tend to adorn a lace-like appearance, creating a much more delicate aesthetic. The white-on-white aesthetic is emphasised through the use of brilliant old mine cuts and rose-cut diamonds, along with pearls. Femininity and grace were prominent themes within this era, often shown through the use of bow motifs and garland designs, reflecting the era's fascination with romance and elegance.

As one of Britain's shortest reigns, the Edwardian era was very much a transitional period. This is heavily suggested through Edwardian jewellery designs, capturing the evolving tastes at the turn of the 20th century, serving as a bridge between the ornate Victorian styles and the geometric patterns of the upcoming Art Deco period. Read more about this era in our Guide To Edwardian Jewellery.

The Art Deco Period (1920s-1930s) began shortly after the ceasefire of World War I. This era was made up of styles that embraced boldness with a more modern twist, with designs influenced by geometric shapes and symmetry. Art Deco diamond jewellery showcased intricate patterns, sharp angles, and a fascination with symmetry.

The use of platinum became highly popular, which allowed for more delicate and intricate settings. Colourful gemstones, such as sapphires, emeralds, and rubies, were frequently paired with diamonds to create striking contrasts. Oval and stretched diamond cuts such as emerald-cut diamonds were popular choices during this period, reflecting the era's interest in linear and angular designs. Art Deco pieces exuded a sense of glamour and sophistication, mirroring the cultural shifts and dynamic energy of the Roaring Twenties.

The Retro Era

Following on from the austerity of the Great Depression, the Retro Era (1935-1950) was marked by bold, statement designs. Retro diamond jewellery often featured larger stones and embraced a sense of luxury. Intricate metalwork, often featuring both rose gold and yellow gold, was also extremely popular during this time.

Pieces from this era frequently featured three-dimensional designs and a sense of volume. Bold, oversized motifs, such as bows, ribbons, and flowers, were often used within retro jewellery designs. Retro-era jewellery was a celebration of luxury and extravagance, which was a stark contrast to the economic challenges of the time.

Diamond cutting has evolved significantly over the centuries since it first began. In the early stages, diamonds were fashioned using simple techniques, often with just a few facets. The point cut was one of the earliest styles, with diamonds shaped into a pyramid.

The Old European Cut

As diamond cutting technology advanced, the Old European Cut became a frequent and much-loved choice. Popular in the late 19th and early 20th century, this cut featured a circular shape with a smaller table, larger facets, and a deeper pavilion.

The Old Mine Cut

Old Mine Cut diamonds, originating in the late 17th century, had a cushion shape with a small table, high crown, and large facets. This cut is known for its romantic, minimal characteristics.

The Rose Cut

Dating back to the 17th century, The Rose Cut features a flat base and a domed crown with triangular facets that are arranged in a symmetrical pattern. This cut resembles the opening petals of a rosebud and was popular during both the Georgian and Victorian eras.

When considering buying vintage diamond jewellery, there are several factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase, among those are choosing a certain style and look to your jewellery pieces. We would firstly recommend considering the 4 C’s in the same way you would when considering purchasing brand new diamond jewellery.

Related: The Diamond Buying Guide: Diamond Cuts, Clarity, Carat and Colour

The cut, colour, clarity and carat of the diamond should be considered to ensure that the diamond piece you are buying meets both your aesthetic and financial requirements. It is important to look beyond just the 4 C’s when considering vintage diamond jewellery, as each era comes with specific characteristics that can change the looks, style and finish of the piece that can alter the look.

Embracing their history, vintage diamonds will often have a distinctive patina, a fine layer over the surface of a diamond. This layer forms over several years and is often attributed to being exposed for many years to environmental elements, oils and general wear and tear. This can often give the diamond a soft, hazy look, adding to the gemstone's character and vintage charm. As well as this, general wear over the whole jewellery piece may also be present on vintage diamond pieces. However, this should not be seen as a flaw, but as a testament to the heritage held within a particular piece.

For more general tips read our Guide To Buying Second Hand Jewellery.

When it comes to storing and caring for vintage diamond jewellery, important considerations should be made. In terms of storage, it is highly recommended to store pieces in individual soft pouches or lined jewellery boxes to prevent scratches and minimise exposure to air and moisture, as this could contribute to the piece becoming tarnished. Storing the jewellery in a cool, dry place is also recommended for this reason.

Caring for vintage diamond jewellery properly is imperative for ensuring its beauty is maintained without causing any damage. Gentle cleaning techniques are highly advised to preserve and maintain vintage pieces. A good option for this is using mild soap mixed with warm water and gently scrubbing the solution over the vintage diamond jewellery with a soft brush or a soft toothbrush. It is important to avoid any kind of harsh chemicals during the cleaning process as this could harm the metals or delicate settings of the jewellery. For more intricate designs and vintage diamonds with patina, it is recommended to use a jeweller's polishing cloth to bring out the shine without removing the vintage character.

With second-hand jewellery pieces being added to our stock, you can find a range of styles of pre-owned diamond jewellery. Not only can owning a vintage piece but a valuable investment, but you’ll have unique second-hand diamond jewellery that adds a touch of timeless elegance to your accessory collection.

With buying vintage and second-hand diamond jewellery, all of our pieces are assessed by our experts so rest assured all of our pieces are genuine and high in quality. From necklaces, bracelets, and rings we stock a wide range of diamond pieces. For help on finding the perfect piece for you, read our Jewellery Buying Guide.